“The crudités at the Love have such a Marvel Comics splash of color that I almost checked to see whether the plate had tiny stage lights; the Caesar salad, in which chef Charles Parker dresses ribs of romaine and fronds of dandelion in a vinaigrette that makes a briny-sweet coupling of anchovies and figs, is so freshly bouncy with firmness that I wondered whether Olexy and business partner Stephen Starr had planted a farm a few steps away in Rittenhouse Square.”